If you are going to be adopting a companion for your rabbit(s) through A Home for EveryBunny, we require that your rabbit go through a "bunny speed date" with one or more rabbits before you adopt them to set you up for success!
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Preparing for Bonding
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Choosing a Buddy
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What to Expect
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The Bonding Process
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Tips and Tricks
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- All buns must be spayed/neutered before being introduced. Unfixed bunnies are much more territorial and are more likely to fight, which makes bonding MUCH harder.
- Wait at least 2 weeks after a spay or neuter before introducing bunnies. This allows for proper healing after the procedure and gives the bunnies’ hormones a chance to dissipate.
- Set up separate enclosures for each bun to stay in during the bonding process. Bunnies need time to get to know each other and should not be kept in the same enclosure until fully bonded. Ideally, the enclosures should be next to each other with ~3-4 inches of space between them. This space allows them to see and smell each other without being able to engage in a fight.
- Prepare a designated neutral space in which to host bunny dates. Bunnies are extremely defensive of their areas, so introducing them in a space that has not been “claimed” will help to prevent them from getting into turf wars. Make sure to choose an area is which you will be able to get to your bunnies at all times as you do not want a fight breaking out in a place where you cannot reach them. Bathtubs tend to work well for starters since the space is small enough for you to keep a close eye on the buns and the slippery surface makes it difficult to lunge and fight.
- Collect your supplies. You will need something on hand that you can use to safely break up a fight if one occurs. This can include a broom, a spray bottle filled with water, gloves or oven mitts for your hands, a towel, or an object that makes a loud noise. It is also helpful to have a small supply of treats on hand to reward good behaviors or to alleviate tension.
- The majority of rabbits are bondable, but some require more work than others. A general rule of thumb is that 10% of rabbits fall in love at first sight, 80% will bond with time and effort, and 10% are highly incompatible and are unlikely to bond without significant time and energy.
- It is best to let your rabbit choose his/her companion. Bunnies have different personalities, just like people, and do best when they are allowed to choose their own friends. Most rescues are more than happy to host bunny dates and can help you identify a good pairing.
- In general, boy-girl pairs are the easiest, followed by boy-boy pairs. Girl-girl pairs are usually the most difficult as females can be particularly territorial, but these bonds are still possible. It really depends on the rabbits involved, which is why bunny dating is highly recommended.
- Size and breed rarely matter when it comes to finding a good partner. Age can sometimes play a role, but usually only when it involves a very young bunny. Young bunnies tend to get along with everyone until their hormones kick in. Once they’ve reached adulthood, age is much less important than personality, so don’t be afraid to try buns of different ages.
- Look for positive interactions between bunnies when determining a potential match. Positive interactions include grooming (each other or themselves), laying down, or seemingly ignoring each other. These are very good indicators that a pair will bond. Chasing, humping, and nipping are less positive, but are very normal and do not mean the rabbits are incompatible. Bunnies that immediately start fighting are generally not a good match and require significant time and energy in order to bond.
- Patience is key! While some bunnies can bond within a matter of days, most take weeks to months and some may take even longer to form a successful bond. Bunnies that take longer simply need more time to determine a proper hierarchy, so don’t get discouraged!
- Expect setbacks. Bunnies have bad days too and it’s perfectly normal to be making progress and suddenly get hit with a bad date. When this happens, take a break and try again later. If you keep having bad dates, try something different. Different things work for different bunnies, so it’s important to find what works for your pair.
- Keep in mind the old adage “an ounce of prevention is a worth a pound of cure.” Rabbits have very good memories and will harbor grudges if they get into a particularly nasty fight. In order to form a good bond, the rabbits must learn to trust each other. As such, it is important to do as much as you can to prevent fights from happening by keeping a close eye on their interactions. If a fight does occur, break it up as quickly as possible. Never let them just “duke it out.”
- It is very normal for a bun to mark territory during the bonding process. You will likely see several poops along the side of the pen the is closest to the other bunny, as well as a few scattered throughout their pen. They have not forgotten their litter habits, they are simply establishing their space now that another bunny is present. This will subside as they bond.
Getting Started:
Making Progress:
POSITIVE BEHAVIORS
Grooming
A bunny cleans themselves or cleans the other bunny. Grooming is always a very good sign! Grooming oneself in proximity to another rabbit shows interest as the bun is trying to make him/herself presentable. Grooming of each other is the most important indicator of a bonded pair. When a bunny lowers their head down to the ground in front of another, this is a request for grooming. Accepting a request for grooming indicates acceptance of dominance, so it may take time for one bunny to give in. Once a hierarchy is established, grooming will likely go both ways, although the boss will get the lion’s share.
Mirroring
Bunny see, bunny do! Both bunnies are doing the same thing simultaneously, yet independently. This can include laying down at the same time, eating at the same time, or grooming themselves at the same time. This is a very good sign!
Flopping
A bunny pitches over onto their sides like they’ve just had a heart attack. This is a sign of bliss! Bunnies that flop near each other enjoy the companionship.
Binkying
A bunny jumps and kicks their legs out or tosses their ears from side to side. This is a sign of excitement and joy! Your bun is very pleased with the situation.
NEUTRAL BEHAVIORS
Ignoring
Both bunnies are off doing their own thing and seem to be completely oblivious to each other. Despite all appearances, they are VERY aware of the other rabbit and are simply assessing the situation. This is a very good sign as neither bun feels threatened and is open to the idea of being friends.
Chasing
One bunny chases as the other runs away. As long as it is not accompanied by aggressive behaviors, such as fur pulling, biting, or boxing, this behavior is okay. In the wild, males will chase females who then lead them back to their burrows to mate. In this situation, the female is actually enjoying the chase and is essentially “playing hard to get.” Bunnies may also chase to establish dominance - the chaser is telling the chasee that he/she is in charge. So long as the bunny being chased is not stressed or the chasing devolve into fighting, this behavior is fine to allow.
Mounting
One bunny humps the other bunny. This is a display of dominance and is perfectly normal so long as the bunny being humped is not distressed. Even bonded bunnies will hump each other to maintain the hierarchy. In general, humping should only last for a few seconds as the dominant bunny makes their point. You can consider petting the bottom bunny while this is happening to keep him/her calm. If it continues for more than a few seconds, gently remove the top bun so a fight does not occur. Not only is continued humping insulting, but rabbits often latch on and pull fur in the process. You should also intervene if you ever seen one bunny mount the head of the other (e.g. reverse mounting). This position can result in serious injury should the bottom bunny bite. If you see this happen, either remove the top bun or push his/her rear to the side.
Nipping
One bunny pulls a bit of fur from the other bun. When followed by the bun quickly hopping away it is called a nip and run. This is used to get attention and is usually harmless. If the bun does not hop away after nipping, he/she is likely demanding to be groomed. Nipping may also occur when guarding a specific area, such as the litter box. This is a territorial display meant to establish hierarchy and is okay to allow as long as it doesn’t become heated. Nipping is a normal part of the bonding process, but can precede fighting, so make sure to watch closely so it doesn’t devolve into a bunny tornado (see below).
NEGATIVE BEHAVIORS
Thumping
A bunny stomps loudly with his/her back legs. When done during a bonding session this typically indicates frustration as a bun is not getting what they want. This is likely to occur after a request for grooming has been denied. You can help prevent too much offense from being taken by petting the requesting bun when he/she requests grooming.
Bunny Butt
A bunny turns to face the opposite direction, but does not hop away. This is a sign of offense and is often akin to pouting. This may also happen if a request for grooming has been denied. Try appeasing the offended bunny by petting him/her or offering his/her favorite treat as an apology.
Lunging
One bunny crouches and quickly jumps towards the other bunny, often coming away with a chunk of fur. The ears are typically down against the back and the tail is upright and tucked against the body. The attacking bunny is irritated and wants the other rabbit to back off. If you see a bunny preparing to lunge, try to intervene by redirecting their attention or spraying them with a water. Lunging is a precursor to the bunny tornado, so you want to stop the fight before it happens.
Boxing
One bunny rears up and bats at the other with their front paws. This often happens in response to a lunge and is a defensive reaction. If this happens, separate the bunnies and work to calm them down so it doesn’t result in a fight.
Fighting
(Bunny Tornado)
Both bunnies form a tight running circle resembling a tornado. This is an all out fight and both bunnies are attempting to bite each others tails. BREAK THIS UP IMMEDIATELY! Use a broom or gloved hands to separate them and put each back in their enclosures. NEVER reach into a tornado without protecting yourself as you are very likely to get bitten. Once separated, check each rabbit closely for injuries as things happen very quickly during a fight. You will need to take a break from dating for a week or so, but the bond is not lost, so don’t give up!
- Set up your neutral space and get all your supplies ready. If you can, recruit another person to help you with bonding sessions as extra hands can be very helpful in breaking up a fight. Make sure you are both dressed comfortably and are in a good frame of mind. Bunnies can pick up on your stress levels, so the calmer you are the better.
- Place both buns in the neutral space and watch to see how the interact. Keep a close eye out for signs of aggression so that you can intervene before a fight breaks out.
- Do everything you can to make the bonding session pleasant. One of the best things you can do is to place both rabbits side by side or nose to nose and pet them simultaneously. This helps to rub their scents together and makes each rabbit feel as if they are being groomed by the other. This technique is particularly helpful at the start of bonding and to relieve tense situations. Consider doing this at the end of each date as well so it’s the last thing they remember.
- If your buns do get into a fight, separate them immediately and end the date. At this point you will want to wait for ~2 weeks before trying again to allow them to cool off. Try swapping pens and/or surrogate bonding during the break period. When you go to try again, consider using a different location or stress bonding. Make sure to keep a close eye out for any aggressive behaviors and nip it in the bud before it turns into a fight. Spraying the aggressor and firmly telling them “No” will show them that you are in charge and the behavior will not be tolerated.
Making Progress:
- Start with short sessions of 15-30 minutes each. If the date is going well, go for 30 minutes, but avoid pushing the duration any longer during the first couple dates. If you push it too far, they may get irritated and end the date on a negative note, which can make bonding harder.
- Try doing dates each day or every other day. The more often you work with your buns, the faster the process will go. Just remember that bunnies do pick up on your underlying emotional state, so if you are stressed or busy, it is better to skip that day than to risk having a bad dates.
- Once you’ve had a few good dates, you can start increasing the amount of time they spend together. At first you will need to be with them at all times, but as they progress you can leave them alone for a bit. Make sure to stay within earshot during these periods so you can intervene if needed. You should not leave them completely alone together until they are fully bonded.
- When determining whether to move on to the next stage, trust your instincts. Not only do the rabbits learn to trust each other, but you learn to trust them during the process. You will know when they’re ready to move to the next bonding stage, be it adding territorial items, moving to a larger area, or leaving them alone for longer periods of time, so go with your gut.
POSITIVE BEHAVIORS
Grooming
A bunny cleans themselves or cleans the other bunny. Grooming is always a very good sign! Grooming oneself in proximity to another rabbit shows interest as the bun is trying to make him/herself presentable. Grooming of each other is the most important indicator of a bonded pair. When a bunny lowers their head down to the ground in front of another, this is a request for grooming. Accepting a request for grooming indicates acceptance of dominance, so it may take time for one bunny to give in. Once a hierarchy is established, grooming will likely go both ways, although the boss will get the lion’s share.
Mirroring
Bunny see, bunny do! Both bunnies are doing the same thing simultaneously, yet independently. This can include laying down at the same time, eating at the same time, or grooming themselves at the same time. This is a very good sign!
Flopping
A bunny pitches over onto their sides like they’ve just had a heart attack. This is a sign of bliss! Bunnies that flop near each other enjoy the companionship.
Binkying
A bunny jumps and kicks their legs out or tosses their ears from side to side. This is a sign of excitement and joy! Your bun is very pleased with the situation.
NEUTRAL BEHAVIORS
Ignoring
Both bunnies are off doing their own thing and seem to be completely oblivious to each other. Despite all appearances, they are VERY aware of the other rabbit and are simply assessing the situation. This is a very good sign as neither bun feels threatened and is open to the idea of being friends.
Chasing
One bunny chases as the other runs away. As long as it is not accompanied by aggressive behaviors, such as fur pulling, biting, or boxing, this behavior is okay. In the wild, males will chase females who then lead them back to their burrows to mate. In this situation, the female is actually enjoying the chase and is essentially “playing hard to get.” Bunnies may also chase to establish dominance - the chaser is telling the chasee that he/she is in charge. So long as the bunny being chased is not stressed or the chasing devolve into fighting, this behavior is fine to allow.
Mounting
One bunny humps the other bunny. This is a display of dominance and is perfectly normal so long as the bunny being humped is not distressed. Even bonded bunnies will hump each other to maintain the hierarchy. In general, humping should only last for a few seconds as the dominant bunny makes their point. You can consider petting the bottom bunny while this is happening to keep him/her calm. If it continues for more than a few seconds, gently remove the top bun so a fight does not occur. Not only is continued humping insulting, but rabbits often latch on and pull fur in the process. You should also intervene if you ever seen one bunny mount the head of the other (e.g. reverse mounting). This position can result in serious injury should the bottom bunny bite. If you see this happen, either remove the top bun or push his/her rear to the side.
Nipping
One bunny pulls a bit of fur from the other bun. When followed by the bun quickly hopping away it is called a nip and run. This is used to get attention and is usually harmless. If the bun does not hop away after nipping, he/she is likely demanding to be groomed. Nipping may also occur when guarding a specific area, such as the litter box. This is a territorial display meant to establish hierarchy and is okay to allow as long as it doesn’t become heated. Nipping is a normal part of the bonding process, but can precede fighting, so make sure to watch closely so it doesn’t devolve into a bunny tornado (see below).
NEGATIVE BEHAVIORS
Thumping
A bunny stomps loudly with his/her back legs. When done during a bonding session this typically indicates frustration as a bun is not getting what they want. This is likely to occur after a request for grooming has been denied. You can help prevent too much offense from being taken by petting the requesting bun when he/she requests grooming.
Bunny Butt
A bunny turns to face the opposite direction, but does not hop away. This is a sign of offense and is often akin to pouting. This may also happen if a request for grooming has been denied. Try appeasing the offended bunny by petting him/her or offering his/her favorite treat as an apology.
Lunging
One bunny crouches and quickly jumps towards the other bunny, often coming away with a chunk of fur. The ears are typically down against the back and the tail is upright and tucked against the body. The attacking bunny is irritated and wants the other rabbit to back off. If you see a bunny preparing to lunge, try to intervene by redirecting their attention or spraying them with a water. Lunging is a precursor to the bunny tornado, so you want to stop the fight before it happens.
Boxing
One bunny rears up and bats at the other with their front paws. This often happens in response to a lunge and is a defensive reaction. If this happens, separate the bunnies and work to calm them down so it doesn’t result in a fight.
Fighting
(Bunny Tornado)
Both bunnies form a tight running circle resembling a tornado. This is an all out fight and both bunnies are attempting to bite each others tails. BREAK THIS UP IMMEDIATELY! Use a broom or gloved hands to separate them and put each back in their enclosures. NEVER reach into a tornado without protecting yourself as you are very likely to get bitten. Once separated, check each rabbit closely for injuries as things happen very quickly during a fight. You will need to take a break from dating for a week or so, but the bond is not lost, so don’t give up!
- Avoid putting anything “territorial” in the neutral space at first. This includes litter boxes, hideys, toys, or food. As you progress, you can slowly add these items. When you do, make sure to add two of each at a time so they don’t have to compete. When adding hideys, make sure each box has multiple entrances/exits so a bun cannot be trapped by the other.
- In between dates, the most helpful thing to do is swap pens. By moving the bunnies back and forth between their enclosures, you force them to share things and end up mixing their scents. This will effectively blur the distinction between territories and helps them acclimate to sharing.
- Place food dishes on the sides of the pen closest to the other bunny. Eating together helps to simulate a closeness and allows them to acclimate to each other more quickly.
- Give both bunnies separate time out to run before a date. Doing so will tire them out, making them more relaxed and less likely to fight during the date.
- After several successful sessions, consider only letting them out to play together. This helps them to associate play time with the other rabbit, and the positive association helps to build the bond.
- If your bunnies seem to be stuck in a rut, try mixing it up. Change the size of the bonding area or use a completely different area. Try hand feeding them together or rubbing a bit of banana on their noses to entice them to groom each other. Remember that what works for others may not work for you. When you do find something that works, continue to use it as you try other things.
- Try using a surrogate, particularly if one bunny is more aggressive. Place a stuffed animal in one buns’ pen for a few days, then place it in the other buns’ pen for a few days. This gives the each bun a chance to “defend” their territory without risking injury to the other bunny. Over time, each bun will realize they are not being attacked and will be less defensive when smelling the other rabbit. Once they no longer attack the surrogate, you can progress to real dates.
- Consider stress bonding if your bunnies seem to struggle in normal situations. Stress bonding consists of putting the bunnies together is an uncomfortable environment so that they lean on each other for support. Examples include: taking them for a car ride, placing them in a laundry basket on top of a running washer or dryer, carrying them around the house in a box or basket, or vacuuming around them while contained in pen together. After the first couple sessions you will want to return them to their enclosures. Further sessions should be followed with a short bonding session in neutral territory. Once they handle neutral territory without issue, you can stop stress bonding and proceed in neutral spaces.
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